Bochali — The Castle Hill and the Best View on the Island

Bochali is not a village in the usual sense. It’s the hillside neighbourhood that rises above Zakynthos Town, climbing from the back streets of the capital to the Venetian castle at 117 metres above sea level. The road winds up through residential streets, past neoclassical houses half-hidden behind garden walls, through stands of Aleppo pines that scent the air in the heat of afternoon.

At the top: the castle, the view, and one of those rare places in the Ionian Islands where you can sit quietly above the world and watch a town go about its evening business far below.

The Venetian Castle (Kastro)

The castle dates to the Venetian period — the Republic of Venice held Zakynthos from 1484 to 1797 — though fortifications on this hilltop are considerably older. What survives today is substantial: outer walls enclosing a large forested area, a main gateway, the remains of several buildings, and a circuit walk around the perimeter that provides the best views on the island.

The castle grounds are pine-shaded and peaceful. In summer, the contrast with the busy town below is striking — up here, the only sounds are cicadas and wind in the trees. The entrance fee is minimal. The site closes at sunset, which is exactly when you want to be there, so time your visit accordingly.

Inside the walls, look for the remains of the old British garrison buildings (the British held the Ionian Islands from 1815 to 1864), the foundations of medieval churches, and the scattered evidence of a community that lived within these walls for centuries.

The View

From the castle ramparts and the road leading up to them, you see: Zakynthos Town spread below like a model, the harbour with its ferries and fishing boats, the eastern bay stretching toward the mainland, and on clear days the mountains of the Peloponnese across the water.

In the late afternoon, when the sun is behind you and the town below is lit in warm gold, this is one of the finest views in the Ionian Islands. Photographers should note that the light is best between 17:00 and 19:00 in summer.

Solomos and Literary History

Bochali has a particular significance in Greek cultural history. Dionysios Solomos — the national poet, author of the “Hymn to Liberty” that became the Greek national anthem — was born and raised here. The hill above Zakynthos Town was the intellectual centre of the island during the Venetian and British periods, home to the educated class that produced poets, painters, and musicians.

The small square on the road up to the castle, Plateia Solomou (not to be confused with the main square in town with the same name), has a bust of the poet and benches under ancient pines. It’s a pleasant place to stop on the way up.

The Tavernas

Bochali’s hilltop tavernas are famous on the island — not for the food, which is good but not exceptional, but for the setting. Dining on a terrace overlooking the lit-up town and harbour below, with the sound of distant music drifting up from the waterfront — this is a quintessential Zakynthos experience.

The best-known is Lofos (“Hill”), which has been operating on the castle road since the 1980s. It’s touristy and knows it, but the terrace view is unbeatable. For better food in a quieter setting, try Bohali — a family taverna on the lower road with a smaller terrace and home-style cooking. The rabbit stifado and the hand-cut chips are the things to order.

Getting There

Bochali is a 20-minute walk uphill from Zakynthos Town’s Plateia Solomou — follow the signs to “Kastro.” By car, the winding road takes five minutes. There’s a car park near the castle entrance, but it fills quickly at sunset. Walk if you can; the road itself is part of the experience.