Tsilivi — The Family Resort That Actually Works
Tsilivi occupies a peculiar position in the Zakynthos hierarchy. It’s a full-blown tourist resort — hotels, apartments, bars, souvenir shops, the lot — but it manages to avoid the worst excesses that plague other Mediterranean beach strips. The beach is clean and well-organised. The restaurants are decent enough. The nightlife exists but doesn’t dominate. And behind the tourist facades, a real Greek village continues to function.
For families with children, Tsilivi is the most practical base on the island. For couples seeking nightlife, it’s too quiet. For solitude-seekers, it’s too busy. It occupies the middle ground, and occupies it well.
The Beach
Tsilivi Beach stretches about 1.5 kilometres along a gently curving bay facing northeast. The sand is fine and golden, the water shallow and calm — it stays wadeable for a surprising distance offshore. This, combined with the organised sunbed and umbrella setup, makes it one of the best family beaches on Zakynthos.
The beach holds a Blue Flag award and has lifeguard coverage in summer. Water sports are available — pedal boats, banana boats, parasailing — at the southern end. The northern stretch is quieter.
The drawback: in July and August, it’s crowded. Arrive before 10:00 for a good spot, or walk to the less developed northern extension toward Planos, which is essentially the same beach with fewer people.
The Village
Tsilivi’s main road runs parallel to the beach, about 200 metres inland. This is where the restaurants, bars, mini-markets, and rental offices concentrate. It’s tourist-oriented but not entirely soulless — a few genuine tavernas and family businesses persist between the souvenir shops.
The old village crossroads, about 300 metres further inland, retains more character. A small church, a fountain, a vine-shaded plateia — this is where locals still gather in the evenings. The tavernas here serve better food at lower prices than anything on the beach road.
Zante Water Village
The island’s largest waterpark sits on the hill above Tsilivi. It’s well-maintained by Greek standards — multiple slides, a lazy river, wave pool, and dedicated children’s areas. A full day costs around €25 for adults, less for children. It’s the obvious answer to the question “what do we do when the kids are bored of the beach?”
Activities
Tsilivi has the densest concentration of family activities on the island: mini-golf courses, go-kart tracks, a small luna park, horse riding, and multiple dive centres. Most are clustered along the main road or the beach approach road. Quality varies — the dive centres at the northern end (toward Planos) tend to be better run than the ones directly in the tourist strip.
Food and Drink
The beach road is dominated by international restaurants — “full English breakfast” signs alternate with “pizza and pasta” boards. None are terrible; none are memorable.
For better eating, go inland. Taverna Giorgos at the old crossroads has been feeding locals for thirty years and the kitchen hasn’t changed. The lamb kleftiko, cooked in paper in a wood oven, is the best version of this dish on the island’s northeast coast. Mezedopoleio To Steki, five minutes’ walk south of the main strip, does excellent small plates — grilled octopus, dolmades, fava, local sausage.
Getting There
Tsilivi is 6 kilometres north of Zakynthos Town — about 10 minutes by car. Regular buses run the route in summer, roughly every 30 minutes. A taxi from the airport costs about €15.
