Marathonisi — The Island Where the Turtles Live

There’s no bridge to Marathonisi. No road, no car park, no ice cream stand. Just a small, sun-bleached island rising from Laganas Bay, uninhabited, wind-combed, and covered in scrubby vegetation that looks like it has been that way since the Pleistocene. The turtles were here before any of us, and in their slow, patient way, they still run the place.

What Awaits You

Marathonisi — from the Greek for “fennel island” — is a small island (roughly 1.5 km across) located 3 km off the coast of Laganas. It sits at the heart of the National Marine Park of Zakynthos and is one of the most significant loggerhead turtle nesting sites in the entire Mediterranean.

The beach on the island’s sheltered northern side is a curved strip of white-gold sand — wild, uncrowded, utterly lovely. No sunbeds, no umbrellas, no facilities of any kind. The sand is fine and clean, the water is pale aquamarine in the shallows and deepens to cobalt further out. From here, you can see the full sweep of Laganas Bay, with the mountains of the Zakynthos interior rising behind.

But the beach is almost secondary. What draws people to Marathonisi is the water around it. Loggerhead turtles feed in the bay year-round and are visible from the surface. You can snorkel directly alongside them — close enough to see the barnacles on their shells, to watch them surface for breath with an almost meditative unhurriedness, to witness something ancient continuing despite everything. It is genuinely one of the most affecting wildlife encounters available in the Mediterranean, and it requires no special training, no expensive equipment, no extraordinary luck. Just a snorkel and an early morning.

Getting There

Marathonisi is accessible only by boat. Boat trips depart from Laganas harbour, with multiple operators offering morning and afternoon excursions. The crossing takes approximately 20-25 minutes.

Standard excursion (€15-20 per person): Includes return transport, 1-2 hours on the island, and a snorkelling stop in the bay with turtle watching. This is the default option and excellent value.

Private charter: From €150-200 for a small boat for the day. Worth it for the flexibility — you choose timing, duration, and can combine with other stops in the bay.

Book at the harbour (several licensed operators) or through most accommodation providers in Laganas and Kalamaki. The 8:30 AM departure is best for morning calm, fewer boats, and the turtles feeding actively.

The Turtles — What to Know

The loggerhead turtles (Caretta caretta) in Laganas Bay are not in an aquarium. They are wild animals in their natural habitat. The snorkelling experience is extraordinary precisely because of this: no barriers, no handlers, no performance. The turtles simply exist, and you are briefly permitted to share their water.

Responsible turtle watching:

• Never touch: Turtles are protected by Greek and EU law. Touching them is illegal and harmful.
• Keep distance: 2+ metres is the minimum. Don’t chase or herd them.
• No splashing: Sudden movements and splashing disturb feeding behaviour.
• Stay calm: Quiet, slow movements in the water make encounters last longer.
• No flash photography: Disorienting, especially underwater.

The best encounters happen when you float motionless and let the turtle do the swimming. They will often approach of their own curiosity if you’re still enough. A turtle surfacing to breathe 50 cm from your face is one of those experiences that sits with you for years.

Nesting Season

Female turtles nest on Marathonisi’s beaches between May and August, emerging at night to excavate nests and lay eggs. The island is partially closed during this period — boat trips respect exclusion zones around active nesting areas. Hatchlings emerge primarily in August and September.

The Marine Park warden vessel patrols the bay and the island perimeter throughout nesting season. Comply immediately with any instructions from wardens — they have authority to remove visitors who interfere with nesting or nests.

On the Island

Beyond the main beach, basic exploration of the island’s terrain is possible. A rough path circles the western side through low scrub and sparse pine trees. The landscape is harsh, sun-bleached, and beautiful in the way that ecosystems untouched by development tend to be.

The island has no facilities whatsoever. Bring:

• Water: More than you think. It’s hot and there is zero shade on the beach.
• Snorkel mask and fins: Most boat operators rent basic equipment, but personal gear is better.
• Sunscreen: Ocean-safe (reef-friendly formulations preferred in the protected bay).
• Food: Trips are typically 2-4 hours. Bring a snack.
• Waterproof camera: For the turtle encounters.

Best Time to Visit

For turtles: June through September. July and August give the highest sighting probability as turtles are actively nesting and feeding throughout the bay. September is excellent — slightly fewer boat tourists, turtles still present.

Time of day: Morning departures (8:30-9 AM) are significantly better. Calmer sea, better snorkelling visibility, and turtles are actively feeding before the day heats up. Afternoon crossings can be rougher.

For the beach: May and June for the quietest experience. By July, the morning window fills quickly.

Tourist vs Local Perspective

Zakynthians are unambiguously proud of Marathonisi and the turtles. The Marine Park, despite its political complications, is seen by most locals as a genuine achievement — protection that actually worked, for a species that was under serious threat from the very tourism that the island depends on. The turtle-watching trips from Laganas are considered a model of what tourism can look like when the underlying thing being preserved is treated as genuinely precious.

Older Zakynthians will tell you they used to swim here as children without seeing another boat. Today, the boats are managed and numbered. The difference between then and now is real, but so is the fact that the turtles are still here. On balance, the island got the compromise roughly right.