Il Porto — Harbour Dining in Zakynthos Town
The harbour of Zakynthos Town is one of the best in the Ionian Islands: wide, well-maintained, lined with neoclassical buildings in ochre and cream, with fishing boats alongside the ferries and the occasional large yacht making the scene. Il Porto sits directly on the quayside, tables extending out over the water on a wide terrace, boats close enough that you can watch the fishermen returning mid-afternoon with the day’s catch.
It’s a setting that could sustain a mediocre restaurant. Il Porto doesn’t need the setting to carry it — the kitchen is the reason to come.
The Fish
Everything depends on what came in that morning, which is as it should be. The display counter near the kitchen entrance shows the day’s catch: sea bass, bream, grouper, red mullet, perhaps a monkfish or a rare dentex when the trawlers have been productive. You choose, you point at the specific fish you want, the waiter tells you the weight, and it goes on the grill.
Whole grilled fish — the technique is simple and correct: scaled, gutted, rubbed with olive oil and sea salt, placed on the grill over charcoal. No marinade, no complications. Served with lemon, good olive oil, and a small side salad. The fish, if it’s fresh (and here it is), needs nothing else.
Lobster with pasta — when lobster is available (not always, and expensive when it is), this dish justifies the harbour tables. Half a lobster, split and grilled, over thick spaghetti in a light tomato sauce. For two people, split it as a main course and order nothing else.
Prawn saganaki — king prawns simmered in a spiced tomato sauce with crumbled feta and a scattering of fresh parsley. Arrives in the pan, still bubbling. Use the bread to get every last drop of sauce.
Sea urchin pasta — seasonal and not always available, but when it is: fresh pasta with sea urchin roe stirred through with olive oil, garlic, and lemon. One of the purest tastes in Greek seafood cooking. Ask when you sit down.
Kakavia — the fishermen’s soup: a clear broth made from the bones and heads of whatever was too small to sell, with vegetables, olive oil, and lemon. Simple enough to be humble, complex enough that you won’t stop eating it.
What It Costs
Fish by weight runs €8-15 per 100g depending on the species. A 600g sea bream — a good size for one person — will cost €25-35. Add a starter and wine and a dinner for two is €70-100. This is the upper end for Zakynthos and the price of harbour-front location plus consistent quality. Lunch is slightly cheaper.
When to Go
Lunch on a weekday for the best atmosphere and shortest wait. On summer evenings, the harbour fills with strollers and the terrace is in full view — romantic but busier. Sunset is the prime time: arrive at 19:30, get the harbour light, and order something good.
